Final Blog

Yes, Mikki and I made it to Santiago finally, after 39 days on the trail, averaging 12.8 miles a day, 500 miles. We reunited with Karen and Guy, who graciously waited for us, to celebrate with them the completion of our "Caminos", here in the Majestic Ciudad of Santiago. After 2 days of continuous celebration, the Maestas have departed for Portugal to complete their "Dance Card" of the Iberian Peninsula. On the train back to Madrid, we have time to put together this final post.

When we began this Journey May 5th, the 4 of us were like "kids in a candy store", exploring, searching, discovering the meaning and ways of the Camino together. After completing the first 100 miles, we all came to a realization that eventually, in order to achieve this monumental undertaking, which we had planned for so long, that we would inevitably have to do it in our own individual way...the Pilgrim Way. Whether it be riding donkeys, or hitching rides on the back of ox carts.

The traditional Pilgrimage was to begin, at your home, whether it be in Spain, France, Portugal, Germany, Canada, the Nederlands, Australia or wherever, 200 miles, 500 or 3000. We walked side by side, day after day, with Pilgrims young and old, from all of these countries, some leaving from there front door, and some even walking home again from Santiago.

Eventually, we all reach the limits that our bodies can endure. I (Phil) reached mine at 470 miles. Thinking that I had only suffered a heel bruise after 6 torturous miles of 12 to 18 percent downhill grade from O'Cebreiro (the highest point on the Camino, it developed into a most severe case of the always feared and dreaded condition of Plantar Fasciitis. After full realization of my condition and situation, with only 13 miles left to Santiago on the last day, and with no donkeys or ox carts available for our use, we used the only resource available to us..UTUBE! Luckily, we had WiFi that night and Mikki found a video showing the proper method of taping Plantar Fasciitis. After hobbling to and from the Farmacia for tape, I trussed myself up like a Thanksgiving Turkey (see pic), and managed the last 13 miles into Santiago, walking like a true Pilgrim.

By the time this gets posted, we should be back in Madrid, trying to get our flights home rebooked for an earlier time.

Thanks to our fellow Pilgrim "Soul Mates", Guy and Karen, who did the entire Camino "Their Way", and to all of you out there who expressed an interest in following us. We felt your presence when things got tough.

Lastly, there is no way to express the feeling that I have for my "muse", my companion (who had no limits), the love of my life, other than to say, "Thank You, for talking me into this...It really wasn't about Santiago...It was about our journey together all the time."
Felipe

Karen and Guy says:)

We limped into Santiago Sunday morning just in time to attend the pilgrims mass and we made a contribution to ensure that the church would collect enough in donations to swing the incense burner.  Very awesome!   After mass we stood in line for over an hour to get the coveted compestela. Yea!! After a thorough grilling to make sure we had. walked the required 100k we were awarded the certificate.   We walked a total of 252 miles but if you don't walk the last 100k you are out of luck!

Went out today to Finnisterre (end of the earth). and Guy threw his rock into the ocean to absolve his sins just in case Phil & Mikki didn't toss a big enough one on the rock pile

Buen camino to Phil & Mikki and we will see you soon.   Also a special thank you to Mr. Beefeater for supplying a delivery system for the tonic needed to deal with the lactic acid in our legs.

Karen & Guy

4 Days to Santiago

Heading out of Sarria, for the last 100 km, it has been very crowded on the Camino, with fresh young Pilgrims starting their journey here, which is all that is necessary to obtain a Compostela in Santiago. We estimated at least 250  pilgrins in our stage this morning, not counting bicyclists.

The area was settled by an early Celtic population. We felt as if we were travelling through a medieval forest in Ireland or Scotland...after an evening storm...more mud.

We were able to evesdrop on this kilt clad Pilgrim. He told the blond young Pilgrim, "Yu'll ha to come over to dance wi me to find out lassy."

Have been having mostly the same foods on the Pilgrim's Menu or Menu del Dia. Primero Plata is usually choice of Ensalata Mixta, Garlic or Lental Soup, sometimes Paella, Spagetti Carbonara or Bolenese. Segundo Plata is usually choice of Grilled Chicken, Pork or Beef Cutlets or Pescado (usually the local Trucha (Trout)), and always with french fries. Desert is usually choice of Arroz con Letche (rice pudding), Flan, or Helado (Ice Cream). Pan and Vino are always incluida...all for between 9 to 12 euros. Sometimes you get something more unusual because of the locality. I had Beef Tongue last night (pic). Tomorrow night in Melide, they are known for there steamed Pulpo (Octopus). Much better Mariscos in Galicia area as we head West to the Atlantic.

Our new Four-Legged Pilgrim companion for the last few days.

Phil and Mikki

Sarria...429, 71 to Santiago

Thought that we had overnighted at the highest point in our journey, at OCebreiro and would be downhill all day yesterday, but found out in pea soup fog and rain, that we still had another hour to the Alto do Poio at 4, 380 ft. That won't sound like much to most mountaineers, but it was over 6 miles of 12 to 18 percent grade to O Cebreiro, plus another couple after that in the morning.

Mikki was offered an alternative method of transportation to the top from a young French Caballero, but gracefully declined upon my insistence.

We had multiple close encounters with "Walking of the Bulls", thru some of the small villages, with no escape routes available.

We certainly have been missing our hiking compadres, but have been staying in comunication with them daily on our Spanish cell phones.

Phil & Mikki

Phil & Mikki's Blog

From Cacabelos, 375 down, 125 miles to Santiago.

Yesterday we arrived at Cruz de Ferro, where you lay your stone which you brought from home, the size being relative to your sins, and ask forgiveness of them and a blessing. Luckily, we were not aware of the size thing, or we would have had to hire a Shirpa for the trip. Not knowing about Karen & Guy's volume of sins, we overcompensated by laying a much larger stone for them. See pic. People at Cross are Deacon Jim and Dora the Explorer, from NY.

The Stork and the soccer boy are typical scenes near every church, and evenings in every small village.

We are totally amazed, daily, on the generosity of the Spanish people. For instance, there are stands of fruit along the mountain trails, for which they are only asking a donation.

Another encounter that we experienced today, while having lunch on a bench in a grassy area. A local dog approached us, sniffing our chorizo and cheese. We tossed him a couple of pieces. Immediately, a woman from a near dwelling leaned out on her terrace and yelled something at us. We thought, oh boy, we're in trouble now for feeding her dog. In seconds, she came at us, almost running. When she got to us, she opened her hands and gave us a 2 large handfulls of cherries, freshly picked and washed from her own tree. As she left us with a "Buen Camino".  After 800 years,Peregrinos are still treated with kindness wherever they are.
Phil & Mikki

K & G Blog

Hi from the gimpy pilgrims

We have jumped ahead and restarted the camino the last 100k to Santiago that must be walked to get the official certificate/compestela. It is a bit slower going when one walks with a limp, so we are doing shorter days and icing a lot.

Beautiful countryside, charming villages, yummy wines , interesting pilgrims to chat with at days end.  What could be better!!

News flash!!  Disturbing news. We just learned from a historian that the medieval pilgrims took 6 months or more to walk the camino. And rode on anything they could find.  Donkey , ox cart  etc.  What's this about walking every step  and doing it in 6 weeks?  There seems to be bit of misinformation out there.
Buen Camino,
K &G

2 Blogs in 1

 Karen & Guy have gone ahead to Sarria to crawl the last 100k to Santiago!!  Saw a doc in Astorga and now we both have diagnosed  tendinitis.  So armed with new hiking sandals we hope to do around 4 to 5 miles a day with a minimum amount of pain. Happily the down time has allowed us lots of time to enjoy the villages , the churches and museums. 
Let us not forget the food and yummy wine and of course the gin and tonics .  St James has thrown all he has at us but we refuse to have our spirit broken.!!  Even though my black eye has elicited several blessings from passing padres , we are beginning to wonder exactly how long the special prayers last.  So far 5 days seems to be the max.   Buen camino!  K & G

Hi everyone, Phil and Mikki here, we are on our way out of Leon. A great ciudad, but glad to get back to the smaller pueblos. Have been lucky for the last 2 nights, not knowing where we would be staying, but found nice accomodations at the only Bar/Restaurant/Hostal in towns.
A few nights ago we checked into an Albuerge and we asked the front desk what time does your heat come on.   He said it is on.  We said no it is not, our room has to be in the 40's. He said turn your radiator to 5. We said we did. He said OH!  So you want an extra blanket?   We went to bed with all our clothes on. It saved time in the morning. Since the floor was stone, it was like an iceberg, but served as a refrigerator for our next day's yogurts, jamon and queso.

Not a lot of nice scenery yet, coming off the Meseta, but will be going over another snowy pass soon.

Picture is of our friend Steven, from Germany, who bought a new pair of shoes in Leon because of his blister problems. He said he expects big things from his new "Living Rooms".

And yes, that is a cup of melted milk chocolate that you dip your churros in, a very popular breakfast in Spain.
Phil & Mikki
   

Laying low in Leon

Hi All
While Phil and Mikki have been trudging along through rain, sleet and snow, 16 miles days, etc. We " K & G  have been riding the "red cross express" for the walking wounded.
Plagued with a face plant, subsequent back issues, tendinitis, blister, shin splints, out total mileage to date is a meager 175.5.
Phil and Mikki have passed 300!!
We have  other body parts flirting with failure, specifically knees and ankles.  We have made many new best friends among the walking wounded.   As we meet at the next bus stop, it's like old home week, and we brag about how few rest days we needed to heal to continue the walk.
(For those of a certain age, it is shocking to see that even the young are afflicted). 
Off from Leon on Thursday with a"see you soon" to our bus friends.
BIEN CAMINO
Karen and Guy

Half way there

Lunch with Emilio

Someone gave up the trek, ya think?

An early morning momentous passing

We reached the halfway point in our journey today at Terridillos de la los Templarios, a former stronghold of the Knights Templar. Stage 19 on the Camino Map.   Three days, at 16 plus  per day gets us to Leon and the end of the
MESETA!

Found a Bodega along our route, but no one answered. We assumed that it was siesta time. We are out of the well-known Rioja, but having some nice Verdejos (white wine) from the western Galica wine country.

A typical, early morning view, up here on the Meseta.
K&G.  P&M

Nearing 200

Have had some nice days with no rain and lots of color.   Have had some not so nice days with more rain and mud.   It rained all day and snowed in the higher elevations getting to Atapuerca, which is where the oldest living remains of human existence in Europe have been discovered, over 1 million years old.
Into Burgos tomorrow and the  infamous Meseta, which will complete 200 miles on our journey, and hopefully drier and warmer weather awaits.
K&G -P&M
Cannot keep pictures in the correct sequence when downloading to blog from smartphone. It seems to have a mind of its own.

Day 11

Left from Navarrette for  Najera this morning in the pouring rain, 20 mph head winds, 5 hours of 43 degrees and freah mud.  
Our inspiration was the different modes of transportation that we have seen so far.
Update for damage report:
We know now how to thread and drain a blister while on a trail.
We know the importance of icing an injury.  Gin and tonic does wonders.
K, G, P, &M

Nearing 100

After slogging our way up to the Alto del Perdon, we had to wait for the school field trip to vacate the premises for photo ops.  They got to ride the bus .

Mikki's miracle occured today ,  although the wine fountain  did not to work today.   Eek!  Who would have thought it would be closed on the Sabbath.

Damage Report nearing our first 100 miles.
3 blisters
1 head plant
1 controlled trip
1 aching shoulder
1 Questionable back
Hopefully bodies will adjust soon!

Tomorrow we complete 100 miles.  It will be a 2 bottles of wine day!!

Pamplona

Our encounter with an injured horse, having just bolted for freedom, almost trampling us pilgrims.  He did not respond to "stop  horsey, horsey."
After the horse incident, we learned sheep have the right - of - way.
Guy and Phil marking their territory.
Leaving Pamplona in the morning with rain and hills. Expecting more slippery MUD.  Off to Obanos tomorrow.  What were we thinking!  

Guy

Guy says"crossing the Pyrenees is a butt kicking trek!"
Karen says" upward. Slog!"
Phil. says"  We made it to Ibaneta (the summit), and we didn't end up like Javier!
Mikki says "the best part is vino at the end of day!"  How come Vino does not come out of the spigot?
On our way to Zubirra tomorrow.
G-K-P-M

Hi all. Off to a memorable start. Loss ratio : (1pole, 1 sunglasses)  recovery rate: 50 percent.  Credential in hand.  Weather sunny.  Valcarlos tomorrow.   Away we go!!

Our trip is shortly upon us. We will be posting to our blog, hopefully every few days, depending on WiFi availability.   We should have a post in St. John Pied de Port, France prior to hitting the Camino on May 5th.

"Which way is 'la primera flecha amarilla'?"